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Rajasthan of the beaten track
Delhi - Sariska - Jaipur - Junia - Kota - Udaipur - Sirohi - Mander
Nandei - Ajari - Basanthgarh fort
Duration: 15 Days
Day 1: – Delhi / Sariska
Depart on the 5-hour drive to Sariska. En route visit Deeg, a small town with its massive fortifications, stunningly beautiful palace and busy market. Built by Maharaja Suraj Mal in the mid 18th century, Deeg was formally the second capital of Bharatpur State and the site of a famous battle in which the Maharaja’s forces successfully withstood a combined Mughal and Maratha army of some 80,000 men. Some 8 years later, the Maharaja even had the temerity to attach the Red Fort in Delhi ! The booty he carried off included an entire marble building which can still be seen. Suraj Mal’s palace, Gopal Bhavan, has to be one of India’s most beautiful and delicately proportioned buildings. It is also in an excellent state of repair and, as it was used by the maharajas till the 1970s, most of the rooms still contain their original furnishings. Built in a combination of Rajput and Mughal architectural styles, the palace fronts onto a tank - Gopal Sagar - and is flanked by two exquisite pavilions which were designed to resemble pleasure barges.
Continue on to Alwar. Crowned by a hilltop fort, Alwar was founded in 1776, being of the last Rajput states. Beginning as distant cousins of Jaipur, the Alwar royal family maneuvered their way through the chaos of the 18th century, changing sides for quick gains, till the British finally acknowledged and rewarded them for their help against the Marathas. During the few scattered years of peace, some very fine palaces were built. The Alwar Museum, housed in the City Palace, has a fine collection of miniature paintings, manuscripts, arms and the famous solid-silver dining table that aroused the curiosity of royal visitors. Adjacent to the museum is a remarkable reservoir with delicate temples, kiosks and symmetrical stairs considered masterpieces of Indo-Islamic architecture.
Overnight at the Hotel
Day 2: – At Sariska
Early morning and late afternoon jeep safaris in the park. Originally the shooting area of the Alwar ruling family, Sariska is one of the few remaining pockets of forest in the Aravalli range of hills. It became a sanctuary in 1958 and came under Project Tiger in 1979. The core area of 191 sq. miles (498 sq. km) became a national park in 1982. Among the undulating hills and wide valleys of Sariska is a rare combination of natural history and archeology, with 9th- and 10th-century ruins of Shiva temples and the Kanokwari Fort. Opposite the Baran Tal gate of the reserve is a large palace built in 1902 by Maharaja Jai Singh of Alwar as a base for his elaborate shoots.
Most of Sariska is hilly with a wide valley from the gate to Thana Gazi. It has a good network of roads. The dry open deciduous and thorn forests support increasing populations of ungulates including sambar, nilgai (blue bull), chinkara, chawsingha (four horned antelope) and cheetal (spotted deer). The predators include leopard, hyena, jungle cat and jackal, apart from the tiger. Also found are porcupine, wild boar and large populations of rhesus macaque and langur monkeys. The range of habitat also supports a rich variety of birds. Overnight at the Hotel
Day 3: – Sariska / Jaipur
After an early morning jeep safari in the park, depart on the three hour drive to Jaipur. En route visit Amber, the capital for 6 centuries before Jaipur was built, which lies 11 km north of Jaipur. Rising majestically on the slopes of a hill, this 11th century fort and palace complex is a blend of Hindu and Muslim styles - the earlier constructions in the inner apartments designed by the Hindu founder are austere, while later constructions abound in the rich flourishes characteristic of Muslim influence. The Diwani-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience) affords a view of the strategic location of Amber. The Jai Mandir (Hall of Victory) is the finest example of the artistic exuberance of the day - panels of alabaster, fine inlay work, a shimmering Hall of Mirrors, renowned for its fine mirrorwork. The Sukh Nivas (Hall of Pleasure) has 17th century air conditioning. Elephants carry you up the ramparts of the fort.
Jaipur is one of the best planned cities in India, built of rose-pink sandstone by the great astronomer-king Jai Singh II in 1727. The City Palace stands in the centre of the city. Part of it is still the Maharaja's residence, while most of the complex has been developed into a museum containing rare manuscripts, fine specimens of Rajput and Mughal paintings, royal apparel and an armoury. Jantar Mantar observatory was built by the founder of Jaipur, Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh. The huge stone instruments were devised to study the movements of the sun, moon and planets and are incredibly accurate. Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) is the landmark of Jaipur. It stands on one of the main streets, a curious building, elaborate and fanciful, built of pink sandstone with a delicate honeycomb design. Rising five storeys high, it is composed of semi-octagonal overhanging windows, each with its perforated screen, which allowed the ladies of the court to look onto the main street without being seen.
Overnight at the Hotel
Day 4: – Jaipur / Junia
Depart on the 4-hour drive to the small Rajput stronghold of Junia. On arrival check in at the Amar Bagh, the 100-year old lakeside resort of the Thakurs of Junia.
Overnight at the Hotel
Day 5: – At Junia
The lake provides ample opportunity for bird-watching. The Sokalia Great Indian Bustard Sanctuary is just an hour’s drive away. The 1000-year old Junia fort is also worth visiting, as are the nearby tribal villages.
Overnight at the Hotel
Day 6: – Junia / Kota
After breakfast depart on the 5-hour drive to Kota. En route stop at Bundi, which takes its name from the bindo nal - the narrow passage between the rugged hills. It lies at the centre of the south eastern region of Rajasthan, known as Hadaoti, the land of the Hadas. The town of Bundi is settled in the cleft and has a special medieval flavour, quite untouched by time. The Taragarh (Star fort) crowning the top of the 500-foot hill was completed in 1354. There are huge water reservoirs inside the fort hewn out of solid rock, strong battlements and bastions, the biggest one called Bhim Burj on which the famous cannon Garbh Ganjam is mounted. The fort commands a marvelous view of the plains of Hadaoti towards the east, with the lovely waters of Jait Sagar below on one side, the quaintly medieval town of Bundi on the other, and the encircling forests and hills all around. Below the fort, hugging the hill, is the huge Bundi Palace, one of the purest examples of Rajput architecture.
The main entrance is the Hazari Pol, where a guard of a thousand troops used to be quartered and the Naubat Khana where ceremonial music was played. The inner courtyard is entered through the Hathia Pol, a tall portal surmounted by stone elephants so typical of this area. The living apartments were built in 1660 and have beautiful wall paintings of the famous Bundi school. Some of the best examples these paintings can be seen in an open quadrangle with cloistered galleries running round it.
Kota is situated on the banks of the Chambal river. This 13th century city is today Rajasthan’s industrial centre. The City Palace and Fort is one of the largest such complexes in Rajasthan. The Rao Madho Singh Museum displays a superb collection of weapons, clothing and some of the best persevered murals in the state. The enchanting little palace of Jagmandir, built in 1740 by one of the maharanis of Kota, is situated on a small island in the middle of Kishore Sagar, an artificial tank constructed in 1346.
Overnight at the Hotel
Day 7: – Kota / Udaipur
Depart on the five-hour drive to Udaipur. En route visit the 12th century temples at Menal. Also visit Chittorgarh the ancient capital of Mewar State, which represents the origin or Rajput courage. Its ruins today speak eloquently of the deeds of the past. The foundations of the fort are ascribed traditionally to the 7th century and it remained the capital till 1567. The Tower of Victory, was set up in the middle of the 15th century by Rana Khumba to commemorate his triumph over the Moslem kings of Gujarat and Malwa. Chittorgarh was sacked three times - in the beginning of the 14th century, in 1534 and finally by the great Mughal Emperor Akbar. Each time, the people, led by the ladies of the royal household, chose to immolest themselves, rather than surrender. On arrival in Udaipur check in at a hotel for overnight stay.
Overnight at the Hotel
Day 8: – In Udaipur
The Udaipur City Palace stands on the crest of a ridge overlooking Lake Pichola. The largest palace in Rajasthan, it was built at various periods but still preserves the harmony of design, enhanced by massive octagonal towers surmounted by cupolas. Now a museum, it is a labyrinth of courtyards richly decorated with inlaid mirror-work, galleries covered with frescos, temples and roof gardens which afford a wide panorama below. Sahelion-ki-Bari (Garden of the Handmaidens) is a good example of the Hindu art of landscape gardening on a princely scale. Ornamental pools with finely sculptured cenotaphs of soft black stone are surrounded by a profusion of fountains. The Jagdish Temple in the old town was built in the mid-17th century and has a remarkable bronze statue of Garuda, the mythical bird, facing his revered master Lord Vishnu. The shops and craftsmen's ateliers in the narrow streets of the bazaar justify endless walks. The steel blue waters of Pichola Lake, artificially created in the 14th century, reflect the white phantom Jag Nivas Palace, now the Lake Palace hotel which was built in 1746 as the summer residence of the rulers, and Jag Mandir said to be built by Maharana Karan Singh for his friend Prince Khurram, who was later to become emperor Shah Jehan. Huge seamless stone slabs of translucent thinness where used. The rooms were embellished with inlaid stones - onyx, jade, carnelian, jasper and agate.
Overnight at the Hotel
Day 9: – Udaipur / Sirohi
Begin the jeep safari with a 109 km (4 hour) drive to Sirohi, once an important centre of Rajput power, founded by the Deora Rajputs in 1424. The region of Godwad, nestling amongst the undulating Aravali hills on one side and the semi-arid plains on the others, lies on the south-western borders of Rajasthan and is still largely unspoiled.
En route stop at Eklingji, a temple dedicated to the patron deity of the Udaipur Royal house, situated 24 km from Udaipur. As with all sacred buildings in the region, it is built entirely of white marble. The roof is decorated by hundreds of circular knobs and the whole is crowned by a lofty tower. To this day, the Maharana of Udaipur, who is the Diwan of the temple, makes it a point to visit it every Monday.
Also visit Nagda is believed to be established by Nagaditya, the fourth Mewar King. There are several temples here dating from the 4th century AD, ancient rock edicts, stone inscriptions and simple prehistoric shrines at which the Bhils still worship during the Mahashivratri festival in February. The Sas-Bahu (mother in law/daughter in law) temple dates back to the 11th century and is famed for its beautiful carvings. Adbhutji is an old Jain temple named after a somewhat odd statue of a Jain saint seated within. "Adbhut" means, quite literally - peculiar.
Overnight at the Hotel
Day 10: – Sirohi / Mander
Continue on the 44 km drive to Mander. You have time to visit the surrounding Oria tribal villages. Enjoy Oria folk dances in the evening. Overnight at the Hotel
Day 11: – Mander / Nandei
Drive 65 km to Nandei. En route visit the Vameshwarji temple, situated on top of a hillock, which offers a wonderful panoramic view of the surroundings. A small wildlife sanctuary near Nandei holds panther, sloth bear, chinkara and chousingha. Overnight camping.
Day 12: – Nandei / Ajari
The 70-km drive through the Aravali hills gets you to Ajari, situated on the banks of a stream. Visit the Garcia tribal villages. Overnight at the small Ajari Castle or camping.
Day 13: – Ajari / Basantgarh fort
Continue on the 65 km drive to Basantgarh Fort, which dates back to the 8th century. En route visit Markundeshwartan temple, also dating back to the same period. Overnight at the Hotel
Day 14: –Basantgarh fort / Udaipur
The journey ends with a five-hour drive back to Udaipur.
Day 15: – Udaipur / Delhi
Return to Delhi by air or train.
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